Story by Camille Genvieve
Still fresh off New Years Rockin’ Eve, it seems like just yesterday we were raising our champagne flutes to the tune of Single Ladies, and for a few lucky ones, our expectant lips to the hot girl/guy of the party. As we usher in 2010, merry and slightly drunk off Nuvo, we remember 2009 as a most trying year – while the world at large continues to struggle over climate change and economic woes, the world of fashion has since made due with great style and a greater sense of self. To that end, lets kick off the New Year with some reflection on our recent past. So long 2009 – it was indeed an interesting year.
The economic crisis was a sharp double-edged sword for fashion in 2009. While sadly, several hundred jobs were cut across the major houses it became obvious that designers saw the financial crisis as a wake-up call, prompting them to create collections truly worthy of the larger-than-life prices. As the incomparable Karl Lagerfeld commented “[the crisis] was a horrible but healthy thing, as we were not doing quality work.” So in a style worthy of Obama himself, the fashion elite sought out change. At worst, designers chose to veer away from flashiness and focused more on wearability, luxe fabrics, and sharp tailoring. At best, a brilliant few chose to pull out all the stops at their February and September shows. Recession be damned, the fashionistas were going to skip next month’s rent to get a piece!
The usual suspects rounded up this year’s best shows. The ever extravagant Alexander McQueen had us falling for prints with his S/S09 show. And although we’re recapping 2009 an honorable mention is his S/S10 collection – which was fantastic! Those 12” snakeskin booties—J’Adore!. Mr. McQueen was trying to convey that our greed will be the end of the earth. But with those vertebrae-inspired prints, flowing floral appliqué dresses paired with leather corsets and jewels, the fashion elite said ‘bring on the apocalypse!’
Christophe Decarnin put Balmain back on the map as the focus of retailers ‘round the globe. This past summer, we could not escape the multi-strapped, studded gladiator sandals or several knock-offs of the Balmain penned exaggerated-angled shoulders. The original blazers can be found on the backs of celebrities worldwide – Including the late King of Pop, Michael Jackson – who donned at least 3 of the coveted blazers in This Is It?!
Now, we can all count (on both hands and feet) the number of times that black leather YSL swimsuit was featured in a magazine. Needless to say, you can’t deny Stefano Pilati had a great year. His F/W09 collection is a personal favorite. My aesthetic is quite monochromatic and clean, so naturally I enjoyed his black leather trenches and pants mixed with crisp white shirting. And the sharp silhouettes of his charcoal flannel suiting are a stylists delight.
Bless Miuccia’s heart, she gave us master classes in dressing like a lady with Prada. The unique textiles—those crinkled metallic and matte fabrics—that made her Spring lineup of dresses were “lavlay”, but her 1940’s style boiled wool suits and thigh-high fishing waders in Fall were posh! Mr. Lagerfeld sure knows how to put on a show. With a life-size replica of the Chanel headquarters at 31 Rue Cambon as a backdrop, you almost forgot about the clothes. Almost. The multi-tiered chiffon dresses with embellished boleros and silk georgette gown with the oversized bow dripping in Swarovski crystals were to die for.
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Marc Jacobs took us back to the motherland with chunky tribal jewelry, animal prints, feathers, and hides at Louis Vuitton. We especially loved the ostrich feather skirts, the padded-shoulder jackets cinched at the waist with obi-esque leather belts, and those shoes!
Designer god Alber Elbaz blew everyone out the water at both shows for Lanvin. In Spring, he dazzled with color-blocked one-shouldered dresses draped to perfection (draping skills seconded only by Balenciaga). I still crave that nude pouf ¾ sleeve shirt and satin pants with bowtie belt. And Mr. Elbaz’s impeccably tailored Fall skirt suits accessorized with feathered caps, fur stoles, skinny leather belts and gloves achieved the 1940s glamour Miuccia was dreaming of.
Honorable mentions go out to a few other designers. Riccardo Tisci’s gold Middle Eastern-inspired head pieces and mixed fabric jodhpurs for F09 Givenchy Couture were divine. The thigh high leather S&M boots by Nicholas Kirkwood for Rodarte kept us interested through a slightly repetitive F/W09 collection. Rad Hourani gets my vote for best new designer. I absolutely adored those shredded black leather pants and square toed boots. The Proenza Schouler Pre-Fall09 collection was my style guide this year. Good on the PS boys for making clothes that translate 100% from runway to street. A nod to Maison Martin Margiela. The Belgian house celebrated 20 years with a most avant garde S/S09 show including coats made of platinum wigs and jackets of enormous circular cut leather. And last, but certainly never least, Christian Lacroix, with his elegantly made pleated tulle bell-shaped dress, demonstrated what it means to be a true Couturier with what may be his last runway show.
I believe fashion is an important indicator of the times. It directly reflects the cultural, societal and economic environment in which we live, and will live. And if fashion embodies our sense of present and future, considering the gems put out this year, 2010 appears very bright.